A Slipper
Launch

This is a
builder's log of the construction of one of these launches using
the epoxy stitch and tape method of plywood construction. The
site is best viewed via broadband, as it contains many photos and
will be slow to load with a dial up connection. It is a long and
detailed examination of the boat-building process, including mistakes
and reinventions; it covers the thought processes involved as well as
the actual building. It is not meant to be a guide to readers as to how
they should proceed, as I am a first time boat builder. Rather, it is a
record and schedule for this particular boat, and may be
helpful to
others.
The site was originally designed
on
a screen resolution of 1024 x 768 pixels, and may not display properly
on a lesser setting. Starting in mid 2008 the design was changed to a
wide screen at 1440 x 900 pixels, and although it is meant to work on a
traditional screen, there may be compatibility problems of which I am
unaware.
Construction began in January, 2006 in my home garage in Sydney. It was completed at the end of 2010. For a glimpse of the state of the boat's progress now click Current.
"Lyndal"
This photo and some others of completed launches come from The
Slipper Launch Collection

Quintessentially English, isn't it.
These classic Thames river boats were devised, and mostly produced by John Andrews of Bourne End during the 1930s and 1940s, although the prototype, Merk, was built in 1912/3.

which is
not
unlike the racing cars of the day...

Many of the later original boats still exist, and they are now keenly sought collectors' items for restoration and preservation. Originally powered by marinised car petrol engines, they were designed to move at quite a speed (up to 12 mph), and yet to keep the wash low. The slipper stern with its wide, flat expanse virtually eliminated wash, but not necessarily churn or noise. The most common lengths in production were 25 to 30 feet, although three 50 foot boats were built. One of them, Knight Errant, has recently undergone a complete rebuild. It is unusual in having an enclosed cabin with galley and head.

"Knight Errant"

"Deesha"
The seating in slipper launches was traditionally provided by Lloyd Loom chairs and a rear upholstered bench at low level, and weather protection was achieved by a collapsible soft top, similar to the British sports cars of the time.

"Wenona" with Lloyd Loom chairs in two rows. I don't
think that is Elton John driving.

The rear upholstered seat in
"John Andrews"
One notable exception to this arrangement was the launch "Dandini", once owned by the Beverley Sisters, which boasted a rear enclosed cabin (perhaps necessary to protect the hair?)

"Dandini" and its previous owners
A more common arrangement was the forward half cuddy, as seen in Lady Petite II, one of only three slipper launches built by Andrews after World War II.

"Lady Petite II"

Sketches by
Paul Fisher of Selway-Fisher Design.
The Selway Fisher "Kennet" slipper launch can be constructed by the conventional ply on frame system, with chine stringers, or by the stitch and tape method. Stitch and tape seems to be an attractive option at first glance, because of the potential savings in timber. The chine stringers can be dispensed with altogether, as the chine seams are made by epoxy fillets instead of wood, and the frames along the side and bottom of the bulkheads can also be replaced by epoxy fillets. Also, the laminated hog can be left out. When you compare the cost of epoxy with that of timber, however, there is a lot to be said for the traditional approach. Nevertheless, I decided to do the stitch and tape method.
In a stitch and tape canoe type construction there are no longitudinal girders, such as is called for in the slipper launch at the stem, and it is feasible that the girder could be left out here as well, but in view of the fact that the boat will be trailered and subject to repeated traction forces at the bow, the extra strength provided by the girder will be very useful, and I propose to incorporate it.
There is,
of course, the awkwardness of manipulating the four scarfed ply
panels (twelve sheets in all) into a stable hull shape prior to
gluing, especially if you are working alone. Some suitably shaped
female forms can assist here, but the savings in timber are being
partly lost if forms have to be made. So, while stitch and tape
may be a quick and easy method of construction for small craft
such as canoes, it requires a considerable organisation of
resources, especially the availability of helpers, in vessels of
the size of slipper launches.
The Selway Fisher plans include
three versions: the original is a plumb stemmed 20' one with a
relatively small cockpit of 2.178 metres. There is a 21'9" version
which has a sloped stem and a considerably enlarged cockpit at 2.483
metres, with the extra room all located behind the driver. And there is
a 22' version, plumb stemmed, with the same smaller cockpit as the 20'
version, but with a larger engine compartment. The one I have chosen to
build is the 21'9" one, but by the time I have introduced some
alterations it will be 22', or 6.7 metres long.
You can follow the progress of this boat by clicking on the links below. For regular visitors to this site, who may wish to avoid downloading this page at every visit, the following Monthly Progress chart is reproduced on its own dedicated page, which you might care to bookmark instead. It is my intention to update the site every day on which I can do any work on the boat so a shortcut to the "Current" page will also serve the more frequent visitor well.
Top of Page
| January
'06 1. The Lofting Table 2. The Scarfing Jig |
January
'07 26. The Dummy Shaft (cont.) 27. Shaft Hardware 28. Keel Construction |
January
'08 70. Reflection 71. The Vexed Question of Bonding 72. Completion of the Motor Compartment 73. Backing Blocks - Foredeck 74. Laying the Forward Subdeck 75. Draining the Drip Channels Fore and Aft 76. Scuppers in the Cockpit? |
January
'09 117. How Did I Arrive Here? 118. Considerations for the Decking 119. Side Subdeck Glue-Down 120. Suspending the Steering Column 121. Filleting the Windscreen 122. Final Fit-Out of the Motor Compartment 123. Pre-Screen Subdeck Glue-Down 124. Cockbeads for the Coamings |
| February
'06 3. Bulkhead Construction 4. The Hull Panels 5. The Stitch Up |
February '07 28. Keel Construction (cont.) 29. Gluing Sequence 30. Shaft Tube Bonding |
February '08 77. Further foredecking 78. Securing the Screen and Column 79. Laying Out the Dashboard 80. The Bugatti Project |
February '09 125. The Driver's Seating 125a. The Chinese Problem - Simply Galling? 125b. The Driver's Seating (cont.) 126. The Forward Accommodation 127. Locating the Battery Boxes |
| March
'06 6. The Glue Up 7. The Seating Calculations 8. Lowering the Boat 9. The Floor Timbers 10. The Sheer Clamps |
March
'07 31. The Keel Runner 32. The Skeg 33. The Rudder Tube 34. Stem and Keel Fillets 35. Fairing the Hull |
March '08 81. A Winch Bracket 82. The Bilge Pump 83. The Bilge Blower 84. Joining Up the Limber Holes 85. Levelling the Floors 86. Attaching the Sole 87. Finishing Touches to the Rear Seat 88. Upholstery 89. The House Battery System 90. The Instrument Bank |
March
'09 128. The Rear Deck 129. The Rag Top 130. Finally, the Motor Controller 131. Electrical Plumbing 132. Abandoning the Bright Strip |
| April
'06 11. The Carlings 12. Rear Seat 13. Rollover Day 14. Filling and Fairing |
April
'07 36. Marking the Waterline 37. Painting the Bottom 38. The Boot Top 39. Building the New Cradle |
April '08 91. Circuit Protection 92. Lagging the Cockpit 93. Glove Boxes and Speaker Boxes 94. Lagging the Dash Bulkhead 95. Completing the Subdeck 96. The Choice of Finish 97. The Throttle System and Controller |
April
'09 133. Painting the Motor Compartment 134. Rear Deck Glue-Down 135. The Rubbing Strake 136. The Lateral Covering Boards 137. Forward Subdeck Glue-Down |
| May
'06 15. Cold Moulding 16. Moulding the Bow 17. The Keel Flat 18. The Transom 19. The Rudder |
May
'07 40. Painting the Side 41. The Second Rollover 42. Finishing the Rear Seat |
May '08 98. The Coaming 99. Decorative Elements 100. Detailing the Cockpit 101. Making a Picnic of It 102. The Second Deck Skin |
May
'09 138. Foredeck Planning 139. Foredeck Attachment 140. King Plank and Decking 141. Revenue Raising Vandalism 142. The Battery Charger 143. The Stem and Gunwale at Deck Level 144. Completion of the Upholstery |
| June
'06 20. The Motor and Propeller 21. Sheathing the Hull |
June
'07 43. The Longitudinal Floor Timbers 44. The Cockpit Sole 45. The Cockpit Lagging 46. Conduits for the Steering and Electrical Systems |
June '08 103. Further Cockpit Detailing 104. The Covering Boards |
June
'09 145. Completing the Foredeck 146. Gunwale Rubbers 147. Hatch Hinges 148. Foredeck Hardware 149. Drink Holders |
| July
'06 21. Sheathing the Hull (cont.) |
July
'07 47. The Bilge Runners 48. Consideration of the Windscreen 49. The Motor Mounts |
July '08 105. Power Conversion 106. Fiddly Bits 107. Closing the Rudder Compartment |
July '09 150. The Windscreen 151. The Skeg 152. The Hatch Surrounds 153. Converting the Hatch Vents to Dorades 154. Caulking the Decks 155. Coaming Beading 156. The Propeller Shaft Anode |
| August
'06 21. Sheathing the Hull (cont.) 22. Fashioning the Stem |
August
'07 50. The Foredeck Stringers 51. The Foredeck Hatch 52. Fitting the Shaft Seal |
August '08 108. Making Good Use of Space 109. Forward Seating 110. Battery Configuration |
August '09 157. Bedding Down the Deck Hardware 158. Naming Rights 159. Why Ariadne? 160. Meanwhile, Back at the Caulking |
| September
'06 23. Erecting a Keel Template |
September
'07 53. The Windscreen 54. Battery Housing 55. Compartment Venting 56. Fitting the Motor |
September '09 161. Caulking the Rear Deck 162. Refinishing the Decking 163. Attending to the Transom |
|
| October
'06 24. Boring the Shaft Hole |
October '07 57. Building a False "Transom" 58. The Rear Deck Stringers 59. The Rear Deck Hatch |
October '08 111. Rear Subdeck Glue-Down 112. Scribing and Shaping the Rear Coaming 113. Introducing the Side Coaming |
October '09 164. Attaching the Beading 165. Removing the Rudder 166. Deck Hardware |
| November
'06 25. The Keel Timber |
November '07 60. The Helm 61. Finishing the Transom 62. Backing Blocks - Rear Deck 63. Electrical Wiring - Rear Deck 64. Laying the Rear Sub Deck |
November '08 114. Replacing the Control Lever |
November '09 167. Navigation Lights 168. Hooking Up the Horn 169. Hinging the Rear Hatch Cover 170. Hood Hardware |
| December
'06 26. The Dummy Shaft |
December '07 65. The Dashboard Layout 66. The Permanent Windscreen 67. The Steering Column 68. The Helm Mounting Box 69. Odd Jobs |
December '08 115. Introducing the Side Coaming (cont.) 116. Trimming the Windscreen |
December '09 171. Finishing Touches. |
For a more detailed
view of some of the problems I have encountered, I have opened a Problems page.
Selway Fisher Design
Peter Freebody & Co. UK boat builder and restorer
Paul Gartside Ltd. stock boat plans in the USA
Marine Classics builder of Slipper Launches in UK
Vintage Motor Spares in the UK for hard to find components
Thunderstruck in the USA for electric vehicle components, great prices and quick service
Patterson Boatworks in Cumbria, for a modern take on the slipper launch, plus other fine watercraft.
Trend Timbers for exotic and hardwoods, and marine ply
Harper Timber for clear grade Oregon
Caporn Marine, Brookvale, for WEST SYSTEM Epoxy
Solarboat for electric motors and excellent technical advice
Bomond Trading Company for 316 stainless steel fittings
Allplastics Plastics
Engineering for nylon bearings and acrylics
D
H Porter for
propellers and shafts, and other stainless steel and bronze fittings
made to order
International Paints for all finishing supplies
Cassell Marine for shop front and mail order supplies, and helpful personal advice.
Durst
Industries for a 48 volt smart charger.
Another Slipper Launch in the UK at Slipper launch project
A Sam Devlin "Dipper" in the USA at A Boatbuilding Journal
A Selway Fisher Indian runner in the Netherlands at Motorschip Zwerver
The Gougeon Brothers
on Boat Construction.
This is the Bible of Epoxy Boat Building. Invaluable.
Boatowner's Mechanical
and Electrical Manual - Nigel Calder.
Everything you need to know about boat electrics and
mechanics, and a
lot more besides.
Boatowner's
Illustrated Handbook of Wiring - Charlie Wing.
A much simpler version of some of the information in the
previous
book.
The Boat Data Book -
Ian Nicholson
Specifications for everything fitted to a boat.
Cold-Moulded and
Strip-Planked Wood Boatbuilding - Ian Nicholson.
Useful for the moulded hull.
Devlin's Boat Building
- Sam Devlin.
The step by step how to book for the home builder using stitch and tape
construction.
Boat Joinery and
Cabinetmaking Simplified - Fred P. Bingham
How to make a nautical woodworker's statement.
Boatbuilding Manual -
Robert M
Steward.
Mainly covering traditional construction methods, but some about stitch
and tape.
The Boat - Tom Kelly
Great for turkey hunters.
Please feel free to let us know about any broken links, or ask any questions. As long as you are not shredded in the spam filter you should receive a prompt response!

Greg and
Margaret Clapp
mailto:gclappPLUG@bigpond.net.au but pull the PLUG to get through.
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