I was lucky enough to receive an email
from a reader of this site regarding the layout of the covering boards
on the Freebody launches. In order to avoid too heavy a look at the bow
they are actually tapered a little at their forward ends, and this
seems to be a good idea. Mind you, the Freebody launches are probably
not as wide at the bow as Ariadne, which flares out quite quickly to
the first bulkhead. So too much taper would look out of place; but a
bit is in order. That means that my method of cutting the inside edge
of the covering board, with a router following the curve of the deck,
will not be appropriate for the full length of the board. It will have
to be abandoned from the point at which the taper begins.
A Freebody launch (left), and the rather beamier Ariadne (right).
A Freebody launch (left), and the rather beamier Ariadne (right).
It must be a very subtle
taper, because in the picture above perspective makes the covering
boards look wider at the bow than they seem to be further back. I think
that the way to
solve this is to cut my boards the old way, with the router, and them
reduce them manually bit by bit until they look right. But first they
have to be made up, and that requires timbers with a 350 mm. width. So,
it is back to the saw and clamps to construct something suitable.
In the meantime, the subdeck can be used as a drawing platform. Using a constant radial width throughout the length of the covering board makes it meet its counterpart at the bow along a 250 mm. line. In the Andrews launches this line was covered by a bow ornament, so the width of the board would be chosen to match the ornament.
The bow on Ariadne's subdeck (below), and the bow ornament on
California Lady (above).
In the meantime, the subdeck can be used as a drawing platform. Using a constant radial width throughout the length of the covering board makes it meet its counterpart at the bow along a 250 mm. line. In the Andrews launches this line was covered by a bow ornament, so the width of the board would be chosen to match the ornament.
The bow on Ariadne's subdeck (below), and the bow ornament on
California Lady (above).
However, lacking
this ornament, I have the freedom to choose.
Markings on the subdeck for the covering boards.
Markings on the subdeck for the covering boards.
One big
difference between the rear deck and the foredeck will be the inability
to clamp the outer edges of the covering boards by using the hull
bottom. In the region of the foredeck there is no hull bottom which can
give a foothold. Instead, the rubbing strakes will be useful as a clamp
grip. But by putting them on the boat before the gunwales are in
position you open yourself to the possibility that variations in the
level of the deck (even by only a millimetre or two) will make for an
irregular top strake, the green bit, So, it is vitally important now to
secure the subdeck in its final glued position, and this means that a
lot more screws and washers are necessary than are presently employed
in tacking it into shape. The added camber of the foredeck makes this a
metal heavy task, as seen below, right.
The starboard rubbing strake is added and the subdeck is heavily screwed down to its final position
The starboard rubbing strake is added and the subdeck is heavily screwed down to its final position
Once the
covering boards are designed, attention turns to the king plank. At its
rear end it must meet the windscreen bottom frame. The angle needed to
accommodate the apex of the frame is only approximated by measurement
with a bevel gauge, because that does not take in to account the camber
of the deck, which dictates a slightly wider angle than might at first
seem necessary. It is difficult to shave a triangulated cut in the king
plank to achieve a snug fit. Moreover, the backward flare of the frame
means that you should really be trying for a cut angulated across the
thickness of the plank, as well as across its width.
There are two easy solutions here. The first would be to split the plank in two down its length, and then cut the ends to mate with each half of the frame independently. Rejoining the halves then reconstitutes the plank. The second is to accept any less than perfect fit as long is the resultant gaps will be obscured later by the application of the beading around the coaming and screen frame.
Of these, the first has the disadvantage that it would make a small discontinuity in the grain pattern of the king plank. That could easily be accepted over the hatches, where there will be another central longitudinal split anyway, but in the forward section it would mean carrying the split up to the bow end, (or ignoring the discrepancy completely).
The second is only acceptable if the beading is wide enough to cover the gaps.
My preference is to try and make the cut into an undivided plank, and trim it manually with very sharp chisels to fit snugly.
The middle section of the king plank is the part which covers the hatches. These hatches are hinged laterally, so the plank must be split down the centre. There will be a small gap between the hatches to allow them not to bind on each other, so ripping the plank with a small kerf Japanese saw will be conducive to a continuous grain pattern.
Finally, the forward section is reached, and it it the most demanding. The caulking gap between the front of the king plank and the covering boards has to be the same as that between the decking strips and the covering boards.
Note the uniform caulking gaps.
There are two easy solutions here. The first would be to split the plank in two down its length, and then cut the ends to mate with each half of the frame independently. Rejoining the halves then reconstitutes the plank. The second is to accept any less than perfect fit as long is the resultant gaps will be obscured later by the application of the beading around the coaming and screen frame.
Of these, the first has the disadvantage that it would make a small discontinuity in the grain pattern of the king plank. That could easily be accepted over the hatches, where there will be another central longitudinal split anyway, but in the forward section it would mean carrying the split up to the bow end, (or ignoring the discrepancy completely).
The second is only acceptable if the beading is wide enough to cover the gaps.
My preference is to try and make the cut into an undivided plank, and trim it manually with very sharp chisels to fit snugly.
The middle section of the king plank is the part which covers the hatches. These hatches are hinged laterally, so the plank must be split down the centre. There will be a small gap between the hatches to allow them not to bind on each other, so ripping the plank with a small kerf Japanese saw will be conducive to a continuous grain pattern.
Finally, the forward section is reached, and it it the most demanding. The caulking gap between the front of the king plank and the covering boards has to be the same as that between the decking strips and the covering boards.
Note the uniform caulking gaps.
On
the rear deck that was ensured by running a router along the gaps, but
the fence on the router was able to follow the line of the gunwale.
Here, if the covering boards are to be tapered, there will be no line
to follow. Even if they are not tapered, the fence of the router will
run up against the stem before the bit reaches the apex of the king
plank. The solution is to run the king plank underneath the covering
boards, scribe the line with a knife, cut to the scribe lines manually
and then back the king plank off away from the covering boards by the
width of the required gap. The excess can be trimmed away at the hatch.
The same can be done with all the decking strips which cross the hatch, but not so easily with those which do not. Therefore, if the taper starts from the point on the covering board at which the first strip not to cross the hatch meets it, the outer strips can be trimmed with the router.
All that means that the covering boards should not be glued down before the king plank and decking strips are in place, but they must be cut and shaped, ready to go.
In order to achieve a covering board with continuous grain, which looks as if it has come from a single piece of wood, I use wide boards which I rip to widths which I can handle on my table saw. 150 mm. is about the maximum I can use if I want to cut them to thickness. Once they are put through the thicknesser, with approximately the same number of passes off the top surface, and as many as necessary off the under surface, the grain should be able to re reassembled to make the joint lines very inconspicuous.
The wide mahogany boards used for the forward covering boards (left), and the re-established grain pattern (right).
The
curve of the
forward boards demands a width of greater than 300 mm., so three strips
are necessary. These timbers seen above are 375 mm. wide, and give
plenty of stock for trimming. But the thinness of the finished boards
(5 mm.) means that they are very easily popped out of the clamps as
they are being rejoined. Normally I would alternate clamps, one under
and one over, for edge joining, but if any over pressure is applied to
these boards they pop out. That is even more unwieldy if three are
being glued up together at the same time, so firstly two are glued, and
then one more is added. Heavy weights help to keep the boards flat
while they are under clamping pressure. With thin strips there is very
little leeway to be planing out steps created by uneven joints, but the
glue squeeze-out makes it difficult to see whether or not they are
properly aligned. I wipe off the excess glue and wash the timber
surface with a water soaked rag. The boards are then aligned under
direct vision, leaving only minimal sanding or scraping to be done
later. The watery impression of Titebond 3 is easily removed with
sanding, much more easily than any blotches of residual glue on the
underneath of the composite boards.
All this takes about a day for each step so that the glue can dry. While the clamps are in place I can get on with plugging the second rubbing strake.
When the strake is finished, the motor compartment is cleaned out once more in preparation for the foredecking. The hull is masked against epoxy spills, and loose wiring is routed out of the way. Starting with the starboard subdeck means removing all the still detachable panels next to it, so that clamps can be employed in holding it down on the stringers and beams. It is easier to get into the motor compartment than the rudder compartment, so I can smooth any squeeze-out into the joins to make small fillets here, whereas I merely scraped away any excess under the rear subdeck. The position of deck hardware has to be known so that wiring can be directed to its final pathway, as it may not be possible after this to screw P clips where they are needed. Protective sheets cover the motor, and the subdeck is finally ready to be attached.
A final clean-up in the motor compartment, and masking the hull prepares it for the starboard subdeck.
139. Foredeck Attachment
A combination of a great many screws and clamps is needed to secure the subdeck to the framework. The camber of the deck and the stiffness of the ply combine to make for a lot of force trying to spring the ply away from the sheer strakes. Once the stringers, beams and sheer strakes are all coated with thickened epoxy, it is the sheer which is screwed down first. The outer stringer also needs a number of screws, which are the next to go in, and finally the inner stringer, alongside the hatch, can be approached using clamps. A trip down into the motor compartment is then necessary to clean up the excess. In the motor compartment itself the cabin lights I have installed prove very useful, but in the fuel compartment immediately forward there are no lights and access is only through the lightening holes in bulkhead B. In the forward floatation compartment between the stem and bulkhead A there is nothing which can come to any harm from dripping epoxy, and it will never be seen anyway, so trying to do a Houdini up there is not a priority.
The back end of the outer subdeck panel is now planed off a little to blend in with the forward end of the side panel, as any irregularity remaining must be slight enough to be obscured by the decking proper and its epoxy layer.
The lip between sub decking panels, arising because of differing ply thicknesses.
But while I am still gluing together components of the forward covering boards I can start work on the king plank. The king plank is cut by first using some scrap to gauge the angles needed to meet the windscreen. Then they are cut into the scrap on each side to simulate the shape of the king plank. They are not exact angles, because the table saw only tilts in one direction. I do not have a band saw. So the bevel for the rake of the windscreen has to be added to one side manually, with a spokeshave and chisel.
Using scrap to gauge the king plank angles.
Top of Page
143. The Stem and Gunwale at Deck Level
The same can be done with all the decking strips which cross the hatch, but not so easily with those which do not. Therefore, if the taper starts from the point on the covering board at which the first strip not to cross the hatch meets it, the outer strips can be trimmed with the router.
All that means that the covering boards should not be glued down before the king plank and decking strips are in place, but they must be cut and shaped, ready to go.
In order to achieve a covering board with continuous grain, which looks as if it has come from a single piece of wood, I use wide boards which I rip to widths which I can handle on my table saw. 150 mm. is about the maximum I can use if I want to cut them to thickness. Once they are put through the thicknesser, with approximately the same number of passes off the top surface, and as many as necessary off the under surface, the grain should be able to re reassembled to make the joint lines very inconspicuous.
The wide mahogany boards used for the forward covering boards (left), and the re-established grain pattern (right).
After
the
composite
is
removed from the clamps and lightly sanded the glue line
is visible, but much less so than it would have been if two different
boards had been joined.
The inconspicuous glue line.
The inconspicuous glue line.
The
curve of the
forward boards demands a width of greater than 300 mm., so three strips
are necessary. These timbers seen above are 375 mm. wide, and give
plenty of stock for trimming. But the thinness of the finished boards
(5 mm.) means that they are very easily popped out of the clamps as
they are being rejoined. Normally I would alternate clamps, one under
and one over, for edge joining, but if any over pressure is applied to
these boards they pop out. That is even more unwieldy if three are
being glued up together at the same time, so firstly two are glued, and
then one more is added. Heavy weights help to keep the boards flat
while they are under clamping pressure. With thin strips there is very
little leeway to be planing out steps created by uneven joints, but the
glue squeeze-out makes it difficult to see whether or not they are
properly aligned. I wipe off the excess glue and wash the timber
surface with a water soaked rag. The boards are then aligned under
direct vision, leaving only minimal sanding or scraping to be done
later. The watery impression of Titebond 3 is easily removed with
sanding, much more easily than any blotches of residual glue on the
underneath of the composite boards.All this takes about a day for each step so that the glue can dry. While the clamps are in place I can get on with plugging the second rubbing strake.
When the strake is finished, the motor compartment is cleaned out once more in preparation for the foredecking. The hull is masked against epoxy spills, and loose wiring is routed out of the way. Starting with the starboard subdeck means removing all the still detachable panels next to it, so that clamps can be employed in holding it down on the stringers and beams. It is easier to get into the motor compartment than the rudder compartment, so I can smooth any squeeze-out into the joins to make small fillets here, whereas I merely scraped away any excess under the rear subdeck. The position of deck hardware has to be known so that wiring can be directed to its final pathway, as it may not be possible after this to screw P clips where they are needed. Protective sheets cover the motor, and the subdeck is finally ready to be attached.
A final clean-up in the motor compartment, and masking the hull prepares it for the starboard subdeck.
139. Foredeck Attachment
A combination of a great many screws and clamps is needed to secure the subdeck to the framework. The camber of the deck and the stiffness of the ply combine to make for a lot of force trying to spring the ply away from the sheer strakes. Once the stringers, beams and sheer strakes are all coated with thickened epoxy, it is the sheer which is screwed down first. The outer stringer also needs a number of screws, which are the next to go in, and finally the inner stringer, alongside the hatch, can be approached using clamps. A trip down into the motor compartment is then necessary to clean up the excess. In the motor compartment itself the cabin lights I have installed prove very useful, but in the fuel compartment immediately forward there are no lights and access is only through the lightening holes in bulkhead B. In the forward floatation compartment between the stem and bulkhead A there is nothing which can come to any harm from dripping epoxy, and it will never be seen anyway, so trying to do a Houdini up there is not a priority.
The back end of the outer subdeck panel is now planed off a little to blend in with the forward end of the side panel, as any irregularity remaining must be slight enough to be obscured by the decking proper and its epoxy layer.
The lip between sub decking panels, arising because of differing ply thicknesses.
The
manufactured
decking
panel,
the starboard covering board, is now moved
into position and scribed to fit against the coaming. Its outer edge is
trimmed and planed to the line of the hull, and the inner edge, forward
of the windscreen, is routed to a width of 170 mm.
The covering board is fitted up against the coaming.
A line of clamps in the dry run.
The covering board is fitted up against the coaming.
The
board
is
given
a pre-glue trial run of clamping, with the newly added
rubbing strake acting as a convenient rest for one jaw of the clamps.
The garage door is also brought into service where the clamps are less
useful, forward of the windscreen.
A line of clamps in the dry run.
When
the
epoxy
is
laid, every available clamp finds a use, in an effort to
get a smooth top. Even so, there will be mild corrugations between
clamp points, which will require sanding down later. The same ply
washers as were used on the rear deck, can be used here too.
After the clamps are removed the
butt joint is sanded to smoothness, and any final paring of the outer
edge to the hull is completed. The large colour difference seen between
the rear deck covering board and the newly applied side deck one is not
entirely due to the time they have been exposed to the air. There is a
true difference, which will possibly need staining to blend better.
But,
the longer the new one is left open to the air, the less the difference
will be.
The side deck covering board.
The butt joint (left), and the remaining bow section (right).
The side deck covering board.
The butt joint (left), and the remaining bow section (right).
The third component
of the covering board can be laid next, but first the rest of the
forward subdeck has to go down. I have been holding back on that while
I reinforce the bow eye within the forward compartment. It is being
epoxy packed and glassed into the forward girder, which has the
strength to be able to handle traction forces from a trailer winch in
the future.
The procedure on the port side begins the same way. The forward subdeck is first given all the extra screws it needs to hold the sheer, and then the covering boards are glued down. Here, the gluing begins at the rear deck which has been sitting unattached on the port until now. I had wanted to get the battery charger installed before I glue on the forward port subdeck, but the time has come to finish the decking, so the charger will be a job to do down a tight hole when it arrives.
Extra screws for the subdeck (left), and glue-down of the covering boards (right).
The procedure on the port side begins the same way. The forward subdeck is first given all the extra screws it needs to hold the sheer, and then the covering boards are glued down. Here, the gluing begins at the rear deck which has been sitting unattached on the port until now. I had wanted to get the battery charger installed before I glue on the forward port subdeck, but the time has come to finish the decking, so the charger will be a job to do down a tight hole when it arrives.
Extra screws for the subdeck (left), and glue-down of the covering boards (right).
The
subdeck is now glued down.
Port forward subdeck glued down.
Port forward subdeck glued down.
When
the
clamps
and
screws are removed there is a broad expanse for the
covering boards to be attached to, except for one small obstruction.
The vent for the shaft seal is currently emerging from the port side
subdeck near the windscreen. This has to eventually emerge through the
covering board as well. So it has to be removed before the covering
board is attached. Unfortunately, it is only accessible through small
holes cut into the dash bulkhead and the port forward side glove box.
Those holes are designed for the passage of my wife's small hands to
reattach the vent after it has been removed. But she is currently
convalescing from an orthopaedic procedure, and getting into the boat
is a problem for her. So, the vent may have to be re-positioned. That
means replacing the vent tubing with a longer one, and that, in turn,
means gaining access to the shaft seal, which is currently hidden under
the carpet in the cockpit.
None of that needs to delay the decking process, but it will mean a diversion back into the cockpit when it is all finished.
The newly attached port subdeck. The shaft seal vent can be seen just in front of the dust
cover near the windscreen.
None of that needs to delay the decking process, but it will mean a diversion back into the cockpit when it is all finished.
The newly attached port subdeck. The shaft seal vent can be seen just in front of the dust
cover near the windscreen.
While
the
attention
so
far has been to get the covering boards up to the
forward deck, a small problem has been overlooked. At the very tip of
the bow, where the forward covering boards will meet one another, there
is still enough camber to cause a considerable distraction on that
joint. The force needed to get the small segment of subdeck up there to
touch the sheer is quite large. So the tendency for the covering
boards' joint line to spring apart will make their attachment very
tricky.
I intend to glue the boards together prior to attaching them, and clamp heavily down on the joint line while the epoxy is setting after attachment, in order to try to protect the joint. It is tempting to bevel the edges of the boards at the joint to get a secure fit, but that would result in a line which would become wider with sanding. Hopefully the glued edges will be strong enough to resist the distracting forces long enough for the clamps to be applied.
Showing the camber at the tip of the bow.
Another day, another covering board. Here is the port board glued down. Then one final adjustment to the forward compartment: the plans for this boat in its ply on frame version calls for a large wooden fillet inside the hull at the bow. This serves to take the screws from the hull panels at the sharp end. In the stitch and tape method I have dispensed with the wood and replaced it with an epoxy fillet. However, in the vicinity of the bow eye there is little to prevent sideways forces from ripping the eye out of the girder into which it is now epoxied. To reinforce the area I added some partial wooden fillets on both sides of the girder, just beside the big bolt of the bow eye.
The port covering board is up to the level of the hatch (left), and a mini fillet for the bow eye (right).
I intend to glue the boards together prior to attaching them, and clamp heavily down on the joint line while the epoxy is setting after attachment, in order to try to protect the joint. It is tempting to bevel the edges of the boards at the joint to get a secure fit, but that would result in a line which would become wider with sanding. Hopefully the glued edges will be strong enough to resist the distracting forces long enough for the clamps to be applied.
Showing the camber at the tip of the bow.
Another day, another covering board. Here is the port board glued down. Then one final adjustment to the forward compartment: the plans for this boat in its ply on frame version calls for a large wooden fillet inside the hull at the bow. This serves to take the screws from the hull panels at the sharp end. In the stitch and tape method I have dispensed with the wood and replaced it with an epoxy fillet. However, in the vicinity of the bow eye there is little to prevent sideways forces from ripping the eye out of the girder into which it is now epoxied. To reinforce the area I added some partial wooden fillets on both sides of the girder, just beside the big bolt of the bow eye.
The port covering board is up to the level of the hatch (left), and a mini fillet for the bow eye (right).
The
subdeck's
forward
cap
is now glued down, and the rest of the cover for
the forward compartment is screwed down in a dry run for the eventual
gluing.
The inner edge line of the
forward covering
board just touches the rear corners of this last bit of subdeck, which
means that I will not have to fix down the cover of the fuel
compartment permanently just yet. That, in turn, means that I will be
able to use clamps on the inside edges of the covering boards along
part of their course, which may be a useful addition to the washers. A
view of the foredeck as it is now shows where clamps can still be
employed.
In the views above the forward
ends of the covering boards can be seen on both sides. Now for the last
of the covering boards, and then the king plank.
A forward covering board being constructed.
The more I think about it, the less likely I am to taper these forward covering boards. The beaminess of the foredeck mitigates against it, and, looking at the rear deck, which has untapered covering boards, I think the impression given is perfectly satisfactory. It will certainly make for easier joinery if there is no taper.
Perspective makes the rear deck boards
look tapered anyway.
A forward covering board being constructed.
The more I think about it, the less likely I am to taper these forward covering boards. The beaminess of the foredeck mitigates against it, and, looking at the rear deck, which has untapered covering boards, I think the impression given is perfectly satisfactory. It will certainly make for easier joinery if there is no taper.
Perspective makes the rear deck boards
look tapered anyway.
You would imagine
that three widths of timber edge joined would be enough to create a
board with plenty to spare, but because of some sap wood in this piece
there is only just enough to negotiate the curve. The sap wood is
placed outboard of the hull where it will be cut off.
The composite forward covering board, and the sap wood edge seen from below.
The composite forward covering board, and the sap wood edge seen from below.
There is
some difficulty in aligning board edges for gluing with thin sections
like these, and the glue lines are clearly visible when it comes off
the clamps, but a little sanding gives a good result.
Before and after a little sanding.
Before and after a little sanding.
Unfortunately
these
things
tend
to look fantastic before the finish goes on, and
disappointing afterwards. We'll have to wait and see how well these
boards come up. The critical factor in them at this stage is the butt
joint between them and the side covering boards. That is cut and fitted
first, and then they are trimmed roughly to size to allow for
adjustment if necessary. When the joint is right the inside of the
board is fixed down with ply washers, and the outside is further
trimmed almost to the sheer. Because of the deck camber, final trimming
has to wait until the board is stuck down with double sided tape.
After that, the router is used to cut the inner edge, and the board is almost ready for glue-down.
Rough cut to size.
Trimmed almost to the sheer.
After that, the router is used to cut the inner edge, and the board is almost ready for glue-down.
Rough cut to size.
Trimmed almost to the sheer.
The
line
of
junction
of the two boards, port and starboard, has still to be
cut. This is marked onto the first one, and cut, after the butt joint
at the rear is tight and the board is flattened onto the subdeck.
That
virtually
completes
the
port side, so the starboard has to be
manufactured and cut to match, then glued to the port one at their
forward extremity. Only after that will they be ready to attach to the
subdeck permanently.
But while I am still gluing together components of the forward covering boards I can start work on the king plank. The king plank is cut by first using some scrap to gauge the angles needed to meet the windscreen. Then they are cut into the scrap on each side to simulate the shape of the king plank. They are not exact angles, because the table saw only tilts in one direction. I do not have a band saw. So the bevel for the rake of the windscreen has to be added to one side manually, with a spokeshave and chisel.
Using scrap to gauge the king plank angles.
When
the
cut
is
made for both sides, V shaped, it appears that the angle
between them is too wide, but that is because the wood is not yet
following the deck camber. As it is forced down onto the deck the limbs
of the V meet the screen properly. This shape can now be transferred to
the actual king plank. There is only a short run of it here, as it
comes up to the hatch opening very quickly.
The dummy king plank being offered up to the windscreen.
It turns out that only a single clamp can be used in the aperture over the fuel compartment to help hold down the covering boards, so I decided to glue down the subdeck over that compartment and use the old washer method instead. The subdeck here is in two halves which can be placed separately. Naturally, they both have to be in position before the king plank can be applied.
The starboard half of the fuel compartment subdeck is glued on.
Gluing down the pre-screen segment and the hatch side filler strips.
The dummy king plank being offered up to the windscreen.
It turns out that only a single clamp can be used in the aperture over the fuel compartment to help hold down the covering boards, so I decided to glue down the subdeck over that compartment and use the old washer method instead. The subdeck here is in two halves which can be placed separately. Naturally, they both have to be in position before the king plank can be applied.
The starboard half of the fuel compartment subdeck is glued on.
The
remaining
subdeck
components
are now stuck down. They consist of the
pre-screen central section, the hatch side filler strips and the
remaining fuel compartment cover.
Gluing down the pre-screen segment and the hatch side filler strips.
Now,
the
angle
of
the windscreen cut is transferred to the king plank
proper, and it is temporarily fixed to the deck to mark out the cross
cut positions for the hatch. The hatch covering piece is ripped down
the middle, and the forward piece is left long for trimming to the
angle of the covering boards after they are joined together.
The king plank is attached, awaiting the starboard covering board.
The king plank is attached, awaiting the starboard covering board.
At
this
stage
I
am getting the impression that the covering boards will
not need a lot in the way of tapering. The same perspective effects are
working on the foredeck as on the rear, and the appearance of the
boards, from the cockpit at least, is quite satisfactory.
The
second
covering
board
goes on without any drama, until it comes to the
bow. There the joint between boards proves to be a lot more difficult
than I imagined, and I ended up having the bevel the sides to get a
tight fit. That means I will only be able to sand very lightly here, or
risk opening up the joint. The joint line on the second board is
scribed from the first one. But after all the fuss getting them to meet
under clamping pressure I am not wanting to lift them again to scribe
the forward end of the king plank, so I cut an appropriate angle in a
second piece of dummy king plank, which I can transfer to the real
thing.
The starboard covering board is routed to shape (left), and, once fixed down, has the port one overlap it for the purpose of scribing the joint.
The dummy king plank is fitted in.
The starboard covering board is routed to shape (left), and, once fixed down, has the port one overlap it for the purpose of scribing the joint.
The dummy king plank is fitted in.
Once
the
real
king
plank is fitted work progresses pretty much as it did on
the rear deck, with the exception that much more shaping of the planks
is needed at their forward end. Because the covering boards may not be
exactly the same shape as one another, this job cannot be done on a
template, and has to be done individually.
The king plank and first two decking planks go on (left), and a more advanced stage (right).
Decking planks are being added on both sides.
The king plank and first two decking planks go on (left), and a more advanced stage (right).
Decking planks are being added on both sides.
As
the
planking
proceeds
the trimming of the forward ends to meet the
covering boards becomes more and more oblique, and that means that
slight variations in the curvature of the covering boards makes the
planks meet
them at varying distances back from the bow. It is visually important
to have planks of opposite sides meet the covering boards at the same
fore/aft distance from the bow. This can be achieved by introducing
slight variations in width of the planks. One might be 65 mm. instead
of the normal 66, and its partner of the other side might be 67 mm. However,
it
is
also
important to make the last little filler strips,
which sit in front of the lateral frame of the windscreen, the same
width, because this too will make for a visual disturbance if there is
a discrepancy.
The filler strips referred to.
So you have to be constantly on the look out for port/starboard differences which might creep in. If the sheers on both sides were exact mirror images there would be no problem, but they are not. It might be recalled that back in March '06, one of them snapped while being bent into the hull shape, and had to be repaired with a scarf joint. That altered the curvature of the piece enough to make a difference of 3 mm. athwartships. At the time when I first measured it I thought I was being too fussy, but now it is relevant, and needs to be compensated for
Five decking strips on each side flank the king plank. Three and a bit more are needed.
The filler strips referred to.
So you have to be constantly on the look out for port/starboard differences which might creep in. If the sheers on both sides were exact mirror images there would be no problem, but they are not. It might be recalled that back in March '06, one of them snapped while being bent into the hull shape, and had to be repaired with a scarf joint. That altered the curvature of the piece enough to make a difference of 3 mm. athwartships. At the time when I first measured it I thought I was being too fussy, but now it is relevant, and needs to be compensated for
Five decking strips on each side flank the king plank. Three and a bit more are needed.
When
the
trimming
becomes
more acute there is little point in trying to
cut for the gaps manually. I just cut them to fit snugly and I will cut
the gap with the router after they are all glued down.
The more acute gaps between the deck strips and covering boards.
The more acute gaps between the deck strips and covering boards.
The
last
day
of
May see the deck completely planked, although
none of it yet glued down. That will have to be done next month. And
will take quite a bit of time, and epoxy!
Only a small area on the port side left to be planked here.
Finished!
Only a small area on the port side left to be planked here.
Finished!
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In these final
stages
of
building the boat I have taken a look at what defacements are likely to
be
inflicted on it by the bureaucrats when it is complete. And there are
quite a few.
The first requirement is an HIN, or hull identification number. This is supposedly to help track down stolen boats by the expedient of attaching to them permanently a number, like the VIN of a car. The concept of permanent fixation to a wooden boat is, of course, laughable, but not the the humourless public servants who administer the scheme, or the agents who profit from selling the service. Nevertheless, the HIN is a relatively small attachment which is not too easily seen.
However, the boat registration number is a different matter. It is mandated in NSW that this boat, being longer than 5.5 metres, must have a registration number, in lettering of at least 150 mm. high, on both sides of the hull. It must be visible from 60 metres. No concepts of any aesthetic nature will be entertained. You can, for an extra price, choose your own combination of letter or numbers, at least six characters long, provided the last character is "N" and provided that the combination is not already in use. At 150 mm. the number will be twice the height of the boat's name.
By pure luck the boat will not require an Australian Builders Plate, because it was begun before September 2006. Any commenced since then do need one, which is to specify its floatation characteristics, engine type, etc. But is does need a capacity sticker, (or latterly a Safety label), which must be permanently visible within 1 metre of the helm, and which stipulates to the driver (me) the number of passengers the boat is licensed to carry, which is information specified by the builder (me), and transmitted to the owner (me).
As well as the registration number, the boat is required to carry on its outside port side its registration label, which is renewed annually for the purpose of informing the water police that you have paid your registration fee. The fees help pay the wages of the bureaucrats who collect them, and supposedly go towards maintaining the broken-down series of launching ramps which can be used by trailer boats. Tough luck for the owners of moored boats, who have further astronomical fees to pay anyway.
Well, with all this important stuff attended to, how about being able to drive the boat? Not a problem. No licence is required in NSW because it can not go faster than 10 knots. The 9.9 knot prang is presumably taken care of by your own private insurance policies, if you have them.
On the subject of floatation devices, which are mandated for small boats of less that 6 metres length, Ariadne does not need any. She is 6.7 metres, and is presumably free to sink without breaking the law.
Now, if all that does not leave a bad taste in your mouth, here is the sequence of events on trying to get the boat registered:
1. Contact the HIN (Boatcode) agent to get one fixed to the hull. On hearing that it is a home built boat the agent says that NSW Maritime will have to certify that it is actually a boat, before he can issue an HIN.
2. Contact NSW Maritime to get it certified. They suggest that they need a naval architect's inspection before they can classify it as a boat, but they have lost the contact details for the architect. They suggest that the Australian Maritime Safety Committee will know one.
3. The Australian Maritime Safety Committee say that they need an expert's report from NSW Maritime, before they can issue an Australian Builder's Plate; but because the boat build was commenced before September '06 it should not need an ABP.
4. Contact NSW Maritime again to get an exemption from the ABP, but be prepared to prove that it was commenced before the critical date. Thank goodness for this web site! Now, with the exemption, the naval architect's inspection is not required, but they have no way of certifying that it is a boat except by issuing it with an ABP.
5. Bypass the first HIN agent and try another. Return to step 2.
Top of Page
The first requirement is an HIN, or hull identification number. This is supposedly to help track down stolen boats by the expedient of attaching to them permanently a number, like the VIN of a car. The concept of permanent fixation to a wooden boat is, of course, laughable, but not the the humourless public servants who administer the scheme, or the agents who profit from selling the service. Nevertheless, the HIN is a relatively small attachment which is not too easily seen.
However, the boat registration number is a different matter. It is mandated in NSW that this boat, being longer than 5.5 metres, must have a registration number, in lettering of at least 150 mm. high, on both sides of the hull. It must be visible from 60 metres. No concepts of any aesthetic nature will be entertained. You can, for an extra price, choose your own combination of letter or numbers, at least six characters long, provided the last character is "N" and provided that the combination is not already in use. At 150 mm. the number will be twice the height of the boat's name.
By pure luck the boat will not require an Australian Builders Plate, because it was begun before September 2006. Any commenced since then do need one, which is to specify its floatation characteristics, engine type, etc. But is does need a capacity sticker, (or latterly a Safety label), which must be permanently visible within 1 metre of the helm, and which stipulates to the driver (me) the number of passengers the boat is licensed to carry, which is information specified by the builder (me), and transmitted to the owner (me).
As well as the registration number, the boat is required to carry on its outside port side its registration label, which is renewed annually for the purpose of informing the water police that you have paid your registration fee. The fees help pay the wages of the bureaucrats who collect them, and supposedly go towards maintaining the broken-down series of launching ramps which can be used by trailer boats. Tough luck for the owners of moored boats, who have further astronomical fees to pay anyway.
Well, with all this important stuff attended to, how about being able to drive the boat? Not a problem. No licence is required in NSW because it can not go faster than 10 knots. The 9.9 knot prang is presumably taken care of by your own private insurance policies, if you have them.
On the subject of floatation devices, which are mandated for small boats of less that 6 metres length, Ariadne does not need any. She is 6.7 metres, and is presumably free to sink without breaking the law.
Now, if all that does not leave a bad taste in your mouth, here is the sequence of events on trying to get the boat registered:
1. Contact the HIN (Boatcode) agent to get one fixed to the hull. On hearing that it is a home built boat the agent says that NSW Maritime will have to certify that it is actually a boat, before he can issue an HIN.
2. Contact NSW Maritime to get it certified. They suggest that they need a naval architect's inspection before they can classify it as a boat, but they have lost the contact details for the architect. They suggest that the Australian Maritime Safety Committee will know one.
3. The Australian Maritime Safety Committee say that they need an expert's report from NSW Maritime, before they can issue an Australian Builder's Plate; but because the boat build was commenced before September '06 it should not need an ABP.
4. Contact NSW Maritime again to get an exemption from the ABP, but be prepared to prove that it was commenced before the critical date. Thank goodness for this web site! Now, with the exemption, the naval architect's inspection is not required, but they have no way of certifying that it is a boat except by issuing it with an ABP.
5. Bypass the first HIN agent and try another. Return to step 2.
Top of Page
142. The Battery Charger
Apart
from
the
batteries
themselves, the last piece of electrical equipment
needed to get this boat running is the charger. 48 volt chargers
designed for gel batteries are not all that easy to come by, but a
local company, Durst Industries,
makes
one which will suit. The best sort to get is a so-called smart charger,
which can be left attached to the batteries, and will bring them up to
full charge without overcharging. As long as the circuit is left open
to the DC converter, the 12 volt house battery will be kept topped up
as well while the drive system is being recharged.
The housing for the charger needs to have some clearance above for air circulation, and access below for switch selection. Mine is going into the port side of the motor compartment, where it will balance up the controller and converter on the starboard. While I have been waiting to install the charger I have been working on the starboard deck, leaving the port subdeck off for ease of reach. Now, I can make up a plinth for the charger and glue it to the dash bulkhead, and then screw the device itself onto the plinth.
The question
arises as to how the incoming cable should be routed, and
by what sort of plug. Requirements for plugs on water-borne boats are
quite specific, as are the precautions necessary to avoid stray current
leakage into the water, and any consequent corrosion problems. But
Ariadne will not usually be expected to be charged in the water.
However, it is not beyond the realms of possibility that she may be
taken out for a weekend and need recharging afloat at some stage.
Top of Page
The housing for the charger needs to have some clearance above for air circulation, and access below for switch selection. Mine is going into the port side of the motor compartment, where it will balance up the controller and converter on the starboard. While I have been waiting to install the charger I have been working on the starboard deck, leaving the port subdeck off for ease of reach. Now, I can make up a plinth for the charger and glue it to the dash bulkhead, and then screw the device itself onto the plinth.
Top of Page
143. The Stem and Gunwale at Deck Level
What to
do with the top of the stem is open to debate. In the traditional boats
the decking usually covers the top of the stem. There is a metal
rubbing strip right around the perimeter of the deck, including at the
bow.
But
there is at least one example where the stem pokes up through the deck.
The plumb stem below means that this boat is probably not an Andrews
design.
The
advantage of the upper arrangement is in the look of the boat. To my
eye this is more attractive; but without the rubbing strip some end
grain of the decking timbers would be exposed and be liable to water
damage. There is no metal rubbing strip specified on Ariadne. Instead,
a half round gunwale of 18 mm. radius is supposed to be attached all
around the deck, although, clearly, it will not cross the bow. It will
butt onto the stem on both sides, similarly to the way the lower
rubbing strake does. So, a proud stem end has something to recommend it
in this situation.
Naturally, there are alternatives; the laminated construction of the stem raises the possibility that the decking timbers, in this case the bow end of the covering boards, could cover the top of the stem except for the forward laminate, which would rise up to the top of the deck level. It would, thereby, protect the end grain of the covering boards where the gunwale stops, and would be relatively inconspicuous. Yet another solution is found in this example below, but requires custom made metal fittings. This is in a Meakes boat, whose stem is treated very differently. In fact, it appears to have no stem at all.
Naturally, there are alternatives; the laminated construction of the stem raises the possibility that the decking timbers, in this case the bow end of the covering boards, could cover the top of the stem except for the forward laminate, which would rise up to the top of the deck level. It would, thereby, protect the end grain of the covering boards where the gunwale stops, and would be relatively inconspicuous. Yet another solution is found in this example below, but requires custom made metal fittings. This is in a Meakes boat, whose stem is treated very differently. In fact, it appears to have no stem at all.
In the
end the best
solution seems to be to allow the stem to penetrate the deck only very
slightly, and protect it from water damage with a hardwood cap.
There is
another advantage in using the metal rubbing strip, too. No glue line!
With the thicker and heavier wooden gunwale there must inevitably be
small gaps which open up between the covering boards and the gunwale,
especially at the sharpest part of the curve. This can be demonstrated
by clamping a piece of scrap up against the covering board as it is at
present. Where the clamp is the gap is smallest, but between clamps it
opens a little. This could, of course, be filled with epoxy, but it
will be quite noticeable because of its variable width. It may be
expedient to rout a groove in this area after the gunwale is connected,
and fill it with an inlay of contrasting timber, thus making a feature
of it. Time will tell.
The trial gunwale is clamped up against the covering board.
Where the clamp is (left) the gap is small. Between the clamps (right) it opens.
The trial gunwale is clamped up against the covering board.
Where the clamp is (left) the gap is small. Between the clamps (right) it opens.
Top
of
Page
144. Completion of the Upholstery
The final
stitch has been put into the acrylic canvas which makes up the
upholstery of the seat cushions. They are off-white with dark green
piping, which matches the new colour scheme of the boat, by chance. The
colour is as totally impractical as is a Slipper Launch itself: perfect.
The rise over the rear coaming is going to be at about the same level as the hood mechanism when it is attached. I think that this is a very comfortable seat for the passengers, considerably more so than either the Andrews design or the one specified in the plan. Three cheers for Mrs. Clapp who hated doing every stitch, but produced a triumph.
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The rise over the rear coaming is going to be at about the same level as the hood mechanism when it is attached. I think that this is a very comfortable seat for the passengers, considerably more so than either the Andrews design or the one specified in the plan. Three cheers for Mrs. Clapp who hated doing every stitch, but produced a triumph.
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