The beading around the outside of the coaming and
windscreen frame has already been cut to approximate size, and now
needs
to be shaped, mitred and attached to the decks. The most difficult part
is that which runs along the base of the windscreen frame on the
foredeck. It has to bend to follow the camber of the deck and remain
tightly opposed to both deck and screen frame. Mitres have to be cut in
it to meet the beading along the side coaming, as well as its partner
from the opposite side. In other words, its exact length must be
determined prior to it being glued down.
The acrylic windscreen can be removed from its frame to give access to clamps which can hold the beading in place, but they are not of much use because they tend to lift the beading off the deck. Instead, small brads are employed, which can be removed after the glue has set.
The starboard screen beading goes on first, and it mitred to the side strip.
The port screen bead is mitred to the starboard one and the port side strip, leaving only the rear athwartships piece to be fitted.
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165. Removing the Rudder
166. Deck Hardware
The acrylic windscreen can be removed from its frame to give access to clamps which can hold the beading in place, but they are not of much use because they tend to lift the beading off the deck. Instead, small brads are employed, which can be removed after the glue has set.
The starboard screen beading goes on first, and it mitred to the side strip.
The port screen bead is mitred to the starboard one and the port side strip, leaving only the rear athwartships piece to be fitted.
The rear piece cannot really be cut off the deck, so
the
last mitre is done in situ with a chisel.
The starboard strip (left), and the rear piece meeting it behind the coaming's dovetails (right).
The starboard strip (left), and the rear piece meeting it behind the coaming's dovetails (right).
165. Removing the Rudder
The reason I have to remove the rudder is
to create a flat on its shaft where the holding screws from the tiller
meet it. The original plan calls for simply grub screws, which do not
need a flat, but my tiller manufacturer thought that he knew a better
way, and provided me with flat bottomed stainless steel bolts for the
job. It is important that the flat be perfectly level and perpendicular
to the rudder blade, and the only way I can do that now is to remove
the rudder.
The rudder shaft with tiller attached.
The rudder shaft with tiller attached.
A line is drawn around the
shaft just above the top of the tiller, so that the location of the
flat can be deduced once the rudder is out. The rudder itself is only
mild steel (I still have misgivings about that!), so it is a simple job
to file a flat onto it. The hard part is getting it out, as it means
that the stern of the boat must be lifted about 1 metre into the air. A
block and tackle system suspended from the ceiling of the garage will
be enough to lift it, but I am wondering whether the ceiling beams are
strong enough to hold it.
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166. Deck Hardware
Starting at the bow, the first item
attached was the burgee staff. I had thought that it might be necessary
to mount its holder on an angled plinth because of the downward slop of
the nose of the deck at this point. But it seems not to be needed after
all. The rowlock into which the pole is inserted on the deck has enough
play in its grip to allow the pole to be repositioned a little. The
bottom of the pole runs onto the fore/aft girder just below deck level,
so with some judicious hammering on the top of the pole, a niche is
created in the girder which holds the pole in a very nearly vertical
position.
The burgee staff.
It is not quite vertical, but I have a feeling that the boat will ride a little high at the bow anyway, in which case the pole will become vertical. In any case, this will do until the boat is launched, and any adjustments can wait until then.
Next, the mooring cleat was bolted through the backing blocks riding beside the central deck stringer between bulkheads A and B. The position of the cleat determines the placement of the fairleads. Their job is to direct the mooring line away from any other hardware which might become snagged, such as the forward navigation light, as well as extending the base of fixation of the boat beyond that determined by the mooring cleats alone. The cleat is located just forward of the hatch opening.
The forward mooring cleat.
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The burgee staff.
It is not quite vertical, but I have a feeling that the boat will ride a little high at the bow anyway, in which case the pole will become vertical. In any case, this will do until the boat is launched, and any adjustments can wait until then.
Next, the mooring cleat was bolted through the backing blocks riding beside the central deck stringer between bulkheads A and B. The position of the cleat determines the placement of the fairleads. Their job is to direct the mooring line away from any other hardware which might become snagged, such as the forward navigation light, as well as extending the base of fixation of the boat beyond that determined by the mooring cleats alone. The cleat is located just forward of the hatch opening.
The forward mooring cleat.
The spotlight sits on top of a stand,
which gives it a little extra height, thereby reducing the length of
the shadow cast by the bow of the boat, and making its handle sit at
the right height in the cockpit so that it does not foul the dash
console.
The spotlight mount.
The spotlight mount.
The wiring for the spotlight
passes into a through deck fitting located at the hole to the port of
the light (above right).
The full complement of deck hardware can now be placed in the allocated positions, and checked for functionality. It is a bit crowded on a small boat like this, especially with the horn up there, but, as I mentioned earlier, I think a silent running craft like an electric boat needs a horn.
The complete foredeck wardrobe of stainless steel and chrome.
Apart from the hatch lifting ring and surround this is the complete rear deck wardrobe.
The full complement of deck hardware can now be placed in the allocated positions, and checked for functionality. It is a bit crowded on a small boat like this, especially with the horn up there, but, as I mentioned earlier, I think a silent running craft like an electric boat needs a horn.
The complete foredeck wardrobe of stainless steel and chrome.
Apart from the hatch lifting ring and surround this is the complete rear deck wardrobe.
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