A Slipper Launch



This is a builder's log of the construction of one of these launches using the epoxy stitch and tape method of plywood construction. The site is best viewed via broadband, as it contains many photos and will be slow to load with a dial up connection.  It is a long and detailed examination of the boat-building process, including mistakes and reinventions; it covers the thought processes involved as well as the actual building. It is not meant to be a guide to readers as to how they should proceed, as I am a first time boat builder. Rather, it is a record and schedule for this particular boat, and may be helpful to others.

The site was originally designed on a screen resolution of 1024 x 768 pixels, and may not display properly on a lesser setting. Starting in mid 2008 the design was changed to a wide screen at 1440 x 900 pixels, and although it is meant to work on a traditional screen, there may be compatibility problems of which I am unaware.

Construction began in January, 2006 in my home garage in Sydney. It was completed at the end of 2010. For a glimpse of the state of the boat's progress now click Current.

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PAGE CONTENTS

1. Preamble
2. Construction Details
3. Monthly Progress
4. Useful Links
5. Suppliers in Sydney
6. Other Builders
7. Recommended Books
8. Contact Details


 

PREAMBLE


"Lyndal"
This photo and some others of completed launches come from The Slipper Launch Collection


Quintessentially English, isn't it.

 

These classic Thames river boats were devised, and mostly produced by John Andrews of Bourne End during the 1930s and 1940s, although the prototype, Merk, was built in 1912/3.


which is not unlike the racing cars of the day...

 

Many of the later original boats still exist, and they are now keenly sought collectors' items for restoration and preservation. Originally powered by marinised car petrol engines, they were designed to move at quite a speed (up to 12 mph), and yet to keep the wash low. The slipper stern with its wide, flat expanse virtually eliminated wash, but not necessarily churn or noise. The most common lengths in production were 25 to 30 feet, although three 50 foot boats were built. One of them, Knight Errant, has recently undergone a complete rebuild. It is unusual in having an enclosed cabin with galley and head.


"Knight Errant"

 


"Deesha"

 

The seating in slipper launches was traditionally provided by Lloyd Loom chairs and a rear upholstered bench at low level, and weather protection was achieved by a collapsible soft top, similar to the British sports cars of the time.


"Wenona" with Lloyd Loom chairs in two rows. I don't think that is Elton John driving.

 


The rear upholstered seat in
"John Andrews"

 

One notable exception to this arrangement was the launch "Dandini", once owned by the Beverley Sisters, which boasted a rear enclosed cabin (perhaps necessary to protect the hair?)


"Dandini" and its previous owners

 

A more common arrangement was the forward half cuddy, as seen in Lady Petite II, one of only three slipper launches built by Andrews after World War II.


"Lady Petite II"

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CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

 


Sketches by Paul Fisher of Selway-Fisher Design.

 

The Selway Fisher "Kennet" slipper launch can be constructed by the conventional ply on frame system, with chine stringers, or by the stitch and tape method. Stitch and tape seems to be an attractive option at first glance, because of the potential savings in timber. The chine stringers can be dispensed with altogether, as the chine seams are made by epoxy fillets instead of wood, and the frames along the side and bottom of the bulkheads can also be replaced by epoxy fillets. Also, the laminated hog can be left out. When you compare the cost of epoxy with that of timber, however, there is a lot to be said for the traditional approach. Nevertheless, I decided to do the stitch and tape method.

In a stitch and tape canoe type construction there are no longitudinal girders, such as is called for in the slipper launch at the stem, and it is feasible that the girder could be left out here as well, but in view of the fact that the boat will be trailered and subject to repeated traction forces at the bow, the extra strength provided by the girder will be very useful, and I propose to incorporate it.

There is, of course, the awkwardness of manipulating the four scarfed ply panels (twelve sheets in all) into a stable hull shape prior to gluing, especially if you are working alone. Some suitably shaped female forms can assist here, but the savings in timber are being partly lost if forms have to be made. So, while stitch and tape may be a quick and easy method of construction for small craft such as canoes, it requires a considerable organisation of resources, especially the availability of helpers, in vessels of the size of slipper launches.

The Selway Fisher plans include three versions: the original is a plumb stemmed 20' one with a relatively small cockpit of 2.178 metres. There is a 21'9" version which has a sloped stem and a considerably enlarged cockpit at 2.483 metres, with the extra room all located behind the driver. And there is a 22' version, plumb stemmed, with the same smaller cockpit as the 20' version, but with a larger engine compartment. The one I have chosen to build is the 21'9" one, but by the time I have introduced some alterations it will be 22', or 6.7 metres long.

You can follow the progress of this boat by clicking on the links below. For regular visitors to this site, who may wish to avoid downloading this page at every visit, the following Monthly Progress chart is reproduced on its own dedicated page, which you might care to bookmark instead.  It is my intention to update the site every day on which I can do any work on the boat so a shortcut to the "Current" page will also serve the more frequent visitor well.


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MONTHLY PROGRESS


Background


January '06 
1. The Lofting Table
2. The Scarfing Jig
January '07
26. The Dummy Shaft (cont.)
27. Shaft Hardware
28. Keel Construction
January '08
70. Reflection
71. The Vexed Question of Bonding
72. Completion of the Motor Compartment
73. Backing Blocks - Foredeck
74. Laying the Forward Subdeck
75. Draining the Drip Channels Fore and Aft

76. Scuppers in the Cockpit?
January '09
117. How Did I Arrive Here?
118. Considerations for the Decking
119. Side Subdeck Glue-Down
120. Suspending the Steering Column
121. Filleting the Windscreen
122. Final Fit-Out of the Motor Compartment
123. Pre-Screen Subdeck Glue-Down
124. Cockbeads for the Coamings
February '06
3. Bulkhead Construction
4. The Hull Panels
5. The Stitch Up
February '07
28. Keel Construction (cont.)
29. Gluing Sequence
30. Shaft Tube Bonding
February '08
77. Further foredecking
78. Securing the Screen and Column
79. Laying Out the Dashboard
80. The Bugatti Project
February '09
125. The Driver's Seating
125a. The Chinese Problem - Simply Galling?
125b. The Driver's Seating (cont.)
126. The Forward Accommodation
127. Locating the Battery Boxes
March '06
6. The Glue Up
7. The Seating Calculations
8. Lowering the Boat
9. The Floor Timbers
10. The Sheer Clamps
March '07
31. The Keel Runner
32. The Skeg
33. The Rudder Tube
34. Stem and Keel Fillets
35. Fairing the Hull
March '08
81. A Winch Bracket
82. The Bilge Pump
83. The Bilge Blower
84. Joining Up the Limber Holes
85. Levelling the Floors
86. Attaching the Sole
87. Finishing Touches to the Rear Seat
88. Upholstery
89. The House Battery System
90. The Instrument Bank
March '09
128. The Rear Deck
129. The Rag Top
130. Finally, the Motor Controller
131. Electrical Plumbing
132. Abandoning the Bright Strip

April '06
11. The Carlings
12. Rear Seat
13. Rollover Day
14. Filling and Fairing
April '07
36. Marking the Waterline
37. Painting the Bottom
38. The Boot Top
39. Building the New Cradle
April '08
91. Circuit Protection
92. Lagging the Cockpit
93. Glove Boxes and Speaker Boxes
94. Lagging the Dash Bulkhead
95. Completing the Subdeck
96. The Choice of Finish
97. The Throttle System and Controller
April '09
133. Painting the Motor Compartment
134. Rear Deck Glue-Down
135. The Rubbing Strake
136. The Lateral Covering Boards
137. Forward Subdeck Glue-Down
May '06
15. Cold Moulding
16. Moulding the Bow
17. The Keel Flat
18. The Transom
19. The Rudder
May '07
40. Painting the Side
41. The Second Rollover
42. Finishing the Rear Seat
May '08
98. The Coaming
99. Decorative Elements
100. Detailing the Cockpit
101. Making a Picnic of It
102. The Second Deck Skin
May '09
138. Foredeck Planning
139. Foredeck Attachment
140. King Plank and Decking
141. Revenue Raising Vandalism
142. The Battery Charger
143. The Stem and Gunwale at Deck Level
144. Completion of the Upholstery
June '06
20. The Motor and Propeller   
21. Sheathing the Hull
June '07
43. The Longitudinal Floor Timbers
44. The Cockpit Sole
45. The Cockpit Lagging
46. Conduits for the Steering and Electrical
      Systems
June '08
103. Further Cockpit Detailing
104. The Covering Boards
June '09
145. Completing the Foredeck
146. Gunwale Rubbers
147. Hatch Hinges
148. Foredeck Hardware
149. Drink Holders
July '06
21. Sheathing the Hull (cont.)
July '07
47. The Bilge Runners
48. Consideration of the Windscreen
49. The Motor Mounts
July '08
105. Power Conversion
106. Fiddly Bits
107. Closing the Rudder Compartment
July '09
150. The Windscreen
151. The Skeg
152. The Hatch Surrounds
153. Converting the Hatch Vents to Dorades
154. Caulking the Decks
155. Coaming Beading
156. The Propeller Shaft Anode
August '06
21. Sheathing the Hull (cont.)
22. Fashioning the Stem
August '07
50. The Foredeck Stringers
51. The Foredeck Hatch
52. Fitting the Shaft Seal
August '08
108. Making Good Use of Space
109. Forward Seating
110. Battery Configuration
August '09
157. Bedding Down the Deck Hardware
158. Naming Rights
159. Why Ariadne?
160. Meanwhile, Back at the Caulking
September '06
23. Erecting a Keel Template
September '07
53. The Windscreen
54. Battery Housing
55. Compartment Venting
56. Fitting the Motor

September '09
161. Caulking the Rear Deck
162. Refinishing the Decking
163. Attending to the Transom
October '06
24. Boring the Shaft Hole
October '07
57. Building a False "Transom"
58. The Rear Deck Stringers
59. The Rear Deck Hatch
October '08
111. Rear Subdeck Glue-Down

112. Scribing and Shaping the Rear Coaming
113. Introducing the Side Coaming
October '09
164. Attaching the Beading
165. Removing the Rudder
166. Deck Hardware
November '06
25. The Keel Timber
November '07
60. The Helm
61. Finishing the Transom
62. Backing Blocks - Rear Deck
63. Electrical Wiring - Rear Deck
64. Laying the Rear Sub Deck
November '08
114. Replacing the Control Lever
November '09
167. Navigation Lights
168. Hooking Up the Horn
169. Hinging the Rear Hatch Cover
170. Hood Hardware
December '06
26. The Dummy Shaft
December '07
65. The Dashboard Layout
66. The Permanent Windscreen
67. The Steering Column
68. The Helm Mounting Box
69. Odd Jobs
December '08
11
5. Introducing the Side Coaming (cont.)
116. Trimming the Windscreen
December '09
171. Finishing Touches.

For a more detailed view of some of the problems I have encountered, I have opened a Problems page.





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USEFUL LINKS:




 

SUPPLIERS IN SYDNEY:

OTHER BUILDERS:



RECOMMENDED BOOKS:

  1. The Gougeon Brothers on Boat Construction.
    This is the Bible of Epoxy Boat Building. Invaluable.

  2. Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual - Nigel Calder.
    Everything you need to know about boat electrics and mechanics, and a lot more besides.

  3. Boatowner's Illustrated Handbook of Wiring - Charlie Wing.
    A much simpler version of some of the information in the previous book.

  4. The Boat Data Book - Ian Nicholson
    Specifications for everything fitted to a boat.

  5. Cold-Moulded and Strip-Planked Wood Boatbuilding - Ian Nicholson.
    Useful for the moulded hull.

  6. Devlin's Boat Building - Sam Devlin.
    The step by step how to book for the home builder using stitch and tape construction.

  7. Boat Joinery and Cabinetmaking Simplified - Fred P. Bingham
    How to make a nautical woodworker's statement.

  8. Boatbuilding Manual - Robert M Steward.
    Mainly covering traditional construction methods, but some about stitch and tape.

  9. The Boat - Tom Kelly
    Great for turkey hunters.

  10. Boat Electrics - James Yates. A simple, practical "how to" book for installing and repairing electrical systems, but not heavy on detail.
   11. The Impractical Cabinetmaker - James Krenov. A life philosophy for woodworkers.

CONTACT US:

Please feel free to let us know about any broken links, or ask any questions. As long as you are not shredded in the spam filter you should receive a prompt response!


Greg and Margaret Clapp

mailto:gclappPLUG@bigpond.net.au but pull the PLUG to get through.


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Ariadne